MARTINE ROSE AND THE FUTURE OF MEN’S FASHION

A designer who hides from doing what’s easy and conventional, and on the contrary, has decided to bet on men’s fashion? Her name is Martine Rose and, if she yet hadn’t entered your radar with collections in which she celebrates British subcultures, she’ll do so here and now with her collaboration with Nike.

Martine Rose  has just reached a broader audience thanks to one of the most stimulating Nike collaborations of recent times. Her AIR MAX MONARCH IV don’t bet on the so-called ugly trend that’s already getting old or on those dad shoes, instead, she experiments with 3D volumes and an original and fascinating silhouette destined to stand out, more than usual, at least now more than ever, in the overabundance of current collaborations.

But Martine Rose is by no means a new name in the fashion field. In fact, it’s more normal for anyone who follows trends, even if they only dabble in fashion, for her name to sound familiar, as in the year 2014, Rihanna decided to wear one of Martine’s coats during a whole week (seriously, a whole week!). Or, even closer, it’s very clear that her nomination to the coveted ANDAM prize for emerging designers ended up placing her in the Fashionista Olympus of 2017

But, we repeat: Martine Rose is not a new name in the fashion field, she’s been playing at this game –playing for high stakes– since, newly graduated from Middlesex University in 2002, she founded the brand LMNOP with Tamara Rothstein . That joint venture would end up dying only three years later, in 2005, but without a doubt, it would wind up building that foundation for what would become Martine Rose’s style for her own brand, inaugurated in 2007 as a brand that specialised in men’s shirts.

And what does Martine Rose’s style consist of exactly? For starters, in a stimulating disdain towards classic conventions of the fashion world. The designer is known precisely for presenting collections outside of the calendar stipulated by Fashion Weeks, and, above all, by presenting them in unusual places like rockodromes or flea markets.

Concerning her designs, Martine Rose shines in her approximation towards masculine and exclusively masculine fashion, which makes her into a rara avis in her scene. Or how many women who have decided to consecrate themselves in men’s fashion do you know? Rose’s proposals usually shine, also, for the fact that they generally vindicate British subcultures and particularly those from London. When it came to explaining her latest Spring/Summer collection, for example, Martine never doubted for a moment in mentioning the rave scene, the Drum’n’bass or the UK Garage.

Oh, and also, the designer has been a consultor to Demna Gvasalia inside the men’s line for Balenciaga . That’s why being known for external references is something that she has left behind. It’s now the moment for Martine Rose’s light to shine brightly.