The show with which Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus has presented its collection for the next Spring/Summer 2020 season has stolen the structure of a classic opera, dividing the show into four acts that are distinguishable by the colours of the lights and star models with pearl necklaces and sumptuous haircuts with delicately sculpted waves by Julien d’Ys. What’s most curious about Rei Kawakubo’s line is that it is resorting to something so canonically traditional to directly talk about the future. Of a future in which the debate about gender roles doesn’t mean dressing men in feminine silhouettes, but it’s about turning clothes into an architecture that has no kind of gender. In Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus it’s impossible to identify the dresses (and the skirts and the puffed sleeves) as feminine or with touches of masculine punk. But that’s what “no gender” was all about.
COMME DES GARÇONS HOMME PLUS S/S 2020, THIS IS WHAT NO GENDER WAS ALL ABOUT
Four acts. An opera. Models with wavy hairdos. Pearl necklaces. Skirts, dresses and shirts… It could very well seem that Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus’ newest collection is referring to the 18th century. But what’s interesting about it is that it’s talking about the perfect no gender future.
